Malga Ciapela - the final solution

I've been climbing in the Aosta Valley for a few days, and today I'm at a small crag with an unspecified name. I've been feeling stomach pain for a few hours now, which in a few days will reveal itself in a painful gastritis!

My summer starts like this: plain rice and potatoes, but every cloud has a silver lining and I immediately understand that it is an unrepeatable opportunity to lose a few pounds and then try some nice projects on the crag. As the days go by, as expected, the weight goes down and consequently the physical shape increases, also thanks to some specific training on the beam.

With the pain now gone and a good dose of determination we go climbing with the usual gang at Malga Ciapela, a nice wall not very long inclined at about 20 degrees with routes not always natural where strength is the master. Summer after summer I have managed to climb all the pitches up to 8a and now, a new project is needed!

At the crag I met some really nice guys from Rome who, in a very short time, gained my respect and admiration by telling me stories about my mentor, their friend, Jolly Lamberti whose book inspired and inspires all my training.

One of them is trying the final solution, a former 8a+ downgraded to 8a. I immediately act like a weasel and since the route is already set up I ask if I can try it too, the Romans accept willingly and explain the steps to me.

On the second attempt I give it my all, but unfortunately a couple of bolts from the end the route decides to spit me out and screaming like a delirious madman I fall down! Two more attempts will follow but the maximum has already said goodbye to me for a while.

Sofa. Obviously I haven't thought about anything else for 2 days except the movements. I review the sequences mentally, even simulating the physical effort, Jolly writes that it's necessary. Between one nap and another I look at the weather forecast and see that it will rain the next day, I had in mind 3 days of rest but I will have to make do with two, I get in the car and in a short time I arrive at the crag where I once again find my Roman friends who, like me, are attacking the route.

I feel pretty good, that feeling that happens to more or less all climbers one or two days a year, while the rest of the time is generally spent complaining.

The usual warm-up on the usual routes and then I set off confidently for my attempt. I know I'm fine, but I've also learned to never underestimate the route, no matter what grade it is, especially this one that currently represents my limit. I've also learned that it doesn't matter if it's easy or difficult, it's extremely honest: it always tells you the truth. In sport climbing you can't cheat, you either go up or you go down, there are no shortcuts, it's a challenge first of all with yourself but you're also inevitably subject to the judgment of other climbers, I think this is a good thing. Putting yourself out there helps you grow and compare yourself.
We live in a society that constantly makes us believe we are the best, makes us feel like protagonists and galvanizes us. Luckily, there is sport that unfailingly brings us back down to earth.

I put on my shoes and the dancing begins, the first sensations confirm what I already felt: I feel great! I feel fluid and delicate, if only it were always like this.

I arrive beyond the crux, but I don't lose concentration, I know that a mistake would surely cost me a flight and I wouldn't forgive myself for throwing such a good day to the wind.

After a while I finally send the chain back, I'm very happy not only because I finished my project in just five laps but also because finally at the bar I'll stop ordering half a liter of sparkling water with ice and lemon
at least for two or three weeks!